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From Taboo to Essential: The Rise of the “Murse”

The Bag That Stopped Being a Joke

Not long ago, a man carrying a bag was the punchline of a sitcom. Jerry Seinfeld’s friends teased him mercilessly for his “European carryall,” and for years that was the reflex: a man with a purse must be hiding something, or trying too hard.

Today, walk through the Miami Design District, the lobby of any five star hotel, or a watch collectors’ get-together, and count the men with a bag on their shoulder. You will run out of fingers. The “murse” (contraction for “man purse”)  has quietly moved from taboo to trend, and from trend to something far more interesting: normal.

I have watched this shift happen inside my own home. It started with my oldest son, and it ended with my husband. But I am getting ahead of myself.

First, It Is Simply Practical

The rise of the men’s bag is not a fashion stunt. It is an answer to a very modern problem: men have more things to carry and fewer places to put them.

Think about what a man leaves the house with today. A phone that keeps getting bigger. AirPods. A wallet or card holder. Car keys that are now the size of a small remote. Sunglasses, a charger, maybe a passport. Tailoring has gone slimmer, trousers have lost their generous pockets, and nobody wants a jacket that sags on one side like a coat rack.

A well chosen bag solves all of this in one elegant gesture. That is the real story behind the trend: it lasted because it works.

This Has Nothing to Do With Gender

Let us retire the old question once and for all. Carrying a bag says nothing about a man’s masculinity. It says he is organized.

Look at who carries one today. Actors arrive on red carpets with sculpted leather pieces. Basketball players have turned the pregame tunnel walk into a runway, and a designer bag is now as much a part of that look as the sneakers. Executives who once carried a heavy briefcase now travel with a slim crossbody and a tablet. Musicians, chefs, architects, surgeons: the profession no longer matters.

Even the luxury houses have stopped pretending there is a line. Louis Vuitton put Pharrell Williams in charge of its menswear, and bags have been at the heart of his collections. When the biggest names in fashion design bags specifically for men, the conversation is over.

The Brands and Models to Know

The numbers confirm what the street already shows. The global men’s luxury bag market was worth about $11.8 billion in 2025 and is projected to reach $18.4 billion by 2035 (Forbes). At the Fall/Winter 2026 men’s shows, totes were carried with tailoring and crossbody bags took the place of the briefcase (Robb Report India). Here are the houses leading the way.

  • Louis Vuitton. The Keepall remains the ultimate weekend classic. The real news is LV Touch, a new permanent leather line under Pharrell Williams with four styles: the Verso Hobo, Steamer 30, Steamer Backpack and Delta Slingbag, in grained calfskin with suede accents in black, tan and khaki (Forbes). A hobo bag designed for men tells you how far we have come.
  • Hermès. The quiet king. The Haut à Courroies, the Steve messenger and the Kelly Dépêches briefcase are built to be used for decades. This season Hermès again chose understated leather made for everyday life over logos.
  • Loro Piana. For those who love quiet luxury: no visible logos, only exceptional materials and real comfort. The Extra Bag and the Bale, in soft suede and supple leather, feel as good as they look, and only those who know will recognize them.
  • Dior. The Saddle, reimagined for men, is proof that a shape once considered feminine can look completely at home on a man’s shoulder.
  • Prada. Re-Nylon crossbodies and slings bring utility and lightness, perfect for travel days and Miami heat.
  • Accessible and excellent. Tumi, Coach and Acne Studios, whose Camero camera bag is one of the most talked about pieces in menswear this year, show that you do not need a five figure budget to carry well.

The trend within the trend: softer shapes, suede and nubuck, and smaller crossbody bags that sit close to the body.

 

The Accessories Around the Bag

When a category becomes serious, an ecosystem grows around it. That is exactly what is happening now. Brands are designing accessories specifically for men’s bags, making them even more practical and, yes, more chic.

  • Bag charms. Lyst reported a 153% jump in searches for bag charms (Numéro). For men, the best versions are restrained: a leather tag, a small key holder, a single piece of well finished metal.
  • Bag hooks. The small folding hook that holds your bag at the edge of a restaurant table, so a beautiful leather piece never has to sit on the floor.
  • Interchangeable straps. Canvas or webbing for the weekend, leather for the evening. The same bag, a different mood.
  • Inner pouches and card holders. They turn one bag into an organized system, so you are not digging for your keys at the valet.

 

I knew this category had truly arrived when my husband asked me for a bag hook for his birthday. Not a tie, not cufflinks: a bag hook. Why? Because a friend of his had one. If you have ever spent time with collectors, you know that is exactly how every obsession begins.

Why Watch Collectors Were Always Going to Carry a Bag

If there is one community that should have embraced the men’s bag first, it is ours. Watch collectors carry precious objects for a living, or at least for a passion.

The watch roll needs a home. Anyone who has been to a collectors’ dinner or a get-together knows the ritual. Three or four watches travel in a leather roll, and that roll does not fit in a trouser pocket. A good bag is the natural safe for everything you want to show your friends that night, plus a loupe and a microfiber cloth.

The same houses make both. Hermès began in 1837 as a harness maker, and today it creates the Arceau and the H08 alongside its bags. Louis Vuitton has invested seriously in watchmaking with the Tambour. Cartier and Dior design watches and leather goods side by side. For these maisons, the bag and the watch are two expressions of one design language, and many collectors now choose them together.

The craft speaks the same language. Collectors love hand finishing, and so do great leather ateliers. The saddle stitch on a Hermès bag is the same logic as a hand stitched strap. The edge painting on fine leather is the cousin of an anglage on a bridge. And a bag that develops patina over the years is loved for the same reason we love a tropical dial: time made it unique.

A few collector’s tips:

  • Carry a crossbody on the side opposite your watch, so the strap and hardware never rub against the case or bracelet.
  • Be careful with heavy chain straps and metal buckles. They are beautiful, and they are also the fastest way to put a scratch on polished gold.
  • If you enjoy a subtle detail, let your bag’s hardware echo your watch: gold tones with a gold dress watch, silver with steel. A quiet bonus, never a rule.
  • Choose a bag with a soft lined interior pocket for a watch pouch, and never let a watch travel loose next to your keys.

From Skeptic to Collector

Which brings me back to my house. The first time my oldest son came home with a man bag, my husband was not convinced. He opposed the idea with the full confidence of a man who had never tried one.

Today, my husband owns five different bags. And he is looking for more.

That is the whole story of this trend in one family. It begins with resistance, it continues with curiosity, and it ends with a collection. Sound familiar? It is exactly how most of us fell in love with watches.

So now I want to hear from you, the WatchVote community. Do you carry a bag? Which one, and which watch goes with it? And are you still a skeptic, or already a collector? Tell me in the comments 🙂 



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